Bariloche
Lake Tranquility in the Andes. How livable is Bariloche, Argentina?
Bariloche is a medium-sized city (162k) beside Nahuel Huapi Lake. Located in Patagonia, the Andes mountain range sits just west of the city. I spent three weeks here in October 2023, and this was my living experience.
EXPLORING
Walkability & Transport (★★★)
I managed to walk to everything (groceries, gym, restaurants, waterfront, coworking space) in 10-15 minutes. Bariloche is hilly, so the walks can be tiring. It can pay off when passing the city’s beautiful houses and catching the lake and mountains in the distance, or up close.
Buses and Ubers are available and inexpensive. I often used Uber in the evening to get back home. I used a bus once for a day of skiing in Bariloche’s ski resort, which was super convenient. That being said, a car is required to fully exploit what Bariloche has to offer, with many highlights being outside of town.
Variety (★★★)
Nature Bariloche. There are many mountainous hikes and roads to run/bike/drive on that offer great views of the surrounding nature. During the winter (June to October), skiing is the thing to do. I would love to spend a few months here focused on snowboarding. The Catedral Alta Patagonia ski resort is amazing, offering 55 runs and beautiful views of Lake Nahuel Huapi and Bariloche.
Outside of nature, there is a solid gastronomic scene, with plenty of nice bars and restaurants. I was surprised by the quality for a medium-sized mountain city. There were many bars and restaurants I passed that looked so nice I had to save them to maps. Funny enough, the Bariloche a la Carta (BALC) festival happened during my stay in October! BALC offers daily culinary events across the city, with an outdoor popup happening on the weekend. These were fun to check out and highlighted the gastronomic scene in Bariloche and abroad, with chefs and mixologists traveling in from the surrounding towns/countries.
CONNECTING
Nature (★★★★)
The first thing that comes to mind when I think about Bariloche is the lake and surrounding mountains. The city features a nice waterfront with snow-capped mountains all around it. While you won't be swimming there (unless you like your cold plunges), it's a treat whenever you end up by the water. You can also find a few grassy areas by the waterfront and Cathedral where you can have a seat to read or enjoy Mate with friends.
If you want more than views, there are various hikes to do around the city, like the hikes to Refugio Frey or Refugio Otto Meiling. Further outside the city, many opt to explore the Route of the Seven Lakes, which takes you from Bariloche to Villa La Angostura (11k people) to San Martín de los Andes (33k people). Unfortunately, this route and the top hikes often require a car to do. During the winter, just 45 minutes outside of town, the Catedral Alta Patagonia ski resort offers world-class skiing.
Community (★★★)
I didn’t find much of a foreigner or expat presence here. Instead, Bariloche is a well-frequented place by Argentinians and foreigners from bordering countries coming on vacation. You won’t find much English being spoken in Bariloche. Still, I could see one meeting some folks through the skiing the town has to offer if you’re there for awhile and willing to strike up conversations on the bus to the resort or the mountain lodges while eating.
I also came across a rock climbing gym, which would be sure to provide some community for those who enjoy the hobby. There are also a variety of coworking spaces near the city center, like Open Work Bariloche, La Compañia Coworking, Fab Lab Bariloche, and Selina, where I worked.
Nightlife (★★)
As a medium-sized city, Bariloche offers a few nightlife options. As I mentioned before, I was surprised by the quality of the city’s bars and restaurants. As for proper nightlife, I went out once to a local club. It was a decent time with lots of locals. There was a ton of Argentinian music and some reggaeton sprinkled in. I did see some advertisements for an electronic party or two during my stay, though never ended up going. While Bariloche’s nightlife can suffice for a couple weeks for those who want a night out, it’s nothing near world-class.
LIVING
Affordability (★★★★★)
I track my spending while traveling to write this section and compare locations. While cooking six days a week and staying in a shared dorm via a hostel (Selina), my average daily cost in Bariloche was $48, or ~$1,440 per month. Bariloche, and Argentina in general, was the most affordable place I've ever traveled to. I heard things have gotten more expensive in 2024 after the election of the new president, Javier Milei.
Still, when I was there, Ubers didn't require much thought. Groceries and restaurants were fair. At the local ski resort, it was $40 for a day pass and $30 for gear rental. You're not going to get cheaper than that. It's a great option to go to Bariloche for skiing rather than the U.S. or Europe, where skiing can be prohibitively expensive.
Safety (★★★)
During the day, I felt safe in Bariloche. I didn’t have to think twice when walking around the city center or outside further up the hills. Some friends were going on long runs in the mornings and had no issues. At night, I did have to stay aware. After a few days, I preferred to just take a cheap Uber home so as to not be caught walking alone past 9 or 10 PM. I did it a few times with no problems but preferred not to after doing it a few times.
Climate & Cleanliness (★★★★★)
Bariloche’s average temperature is generally cool, though ranges between 40 and 70 Fahrenheit. I loved the cool temperature and clean mountain air in Bariloche. Occasional snows reminded me of Chicago and were welcome. When it was warm, there was too much rain for my liking, but that could have been due to the area coming out of winter. In terms of cleanliness, I had no issues.
FINAL THOUGHTS
How long should you stay? Would I return?
A minimum of 3 weeks if you enjoy nature, and more if you ski/snowboard or will have a car. Bariloche is a lovely town. It's an easy place to work while keeping things affordable. You can spend your weekends in nature while staying healthy walking, running, or biking the city’s hills. If you can be there during the ski season (June to September), staying 1-3 months would be more appropriate. Bariloche offers a world-class mountain at a much lower price than the U.S. or Europe. That’s the one thing that would draw me back to Bariloche, an extended stay full of snowboarding every weekend!
Top Weekend Activities
Ski at Catedral Alta Patagonia, Bariloche’s ski resort with 55 runs. The resort is open from July to October. I happened to go on the final day of the season on October 21, 2023! Sadly, only one run was open at that time. You can take the 55 bus directly to and from the resort, taking about 45-60 minutes each way. There are several rental shops right when you arrive, with a short walk to the ticket office and gondola shortly after! This is a must-do if you're here during the winter. Even if you’re a beginner, the views of Lake Nahuel Huapi and Bariloche are stunning.
Drive the Route of the Seven Lakes. While I didn’t make this drive as I had no car, I did do a tour of it after my time in Bariloche. I stayed a few days in the town of San Martín de los Andes (33k people), which I would equally recommend a short stay in. During the tour, we drove through the route down to the even smaller Villa La Angostura (11k people), where Argentinians frequently vacation. The drive was spectacular, passing mountains, rivers, and lakes. Villa La Angostura was unreal. The clearest and most clean water you have ever seen, surrounded by greenery and snow-capped peaks. I would love to return for a longer stay. The route can be done as a day or overnight trip from Bariloche, taking about 3 hours each way.
Hike to Refugio Frey. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to do this hike. I wish I had because it seems amazing. It can be done as a day-hike and I heard nothing but great things.
Hike and stay a night at Refugio Otto Meiling. Same story here. I wish I could’ve done this two-day trek, but it requires a car to get to. With some planning, it can be done. You’ll be rewarded with unreal views of the surrounding Patagonian mountain peaks, some of which make up the Chilean border!
Explore outside of Bariloche in Colonia Suiza and Cerveza Patagonia. I promise, I usually do things! Another highlight I heard about that I didn’t get a chance to go to was Colonia Suiza, a cute Swiss-like village and some food, beer, and lake views at Cerveza Patagonia.
